Italian-American · Noodles & Pasta
Creamy Calabrian Rigatoni with Chicken Sausage
Spicy Rigatoni with Roasted Mushrooms and Spinach
Serves 4 · Prep: 15 minutes · Cook: 30 minutes · Total: 45 minutes
I know creamy pasta with spinach isn’t exactly a hard sell, but you have to make the breadcrumbs. The rigatoni gets coated in a pale Calabrian chile cream with browned chicken sausage and roasted mushrooms, then the pecorino crumbs go over everything while it’s still hot. They catch the sauce in some places and stay crisp in others.
Use raw Italian chicken sausage if you can find it. It breaks into craggy little pieces and seasons the sauce as it browns. Oh! And save more pasta water than you think you need. The pecorino tightens the sauce quickly.
Ingredients
For the roasted mushrooms
- 8 ounces cremini mushrooms, quartered
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
- Black pepper
For the pecorino breadcrumbs
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- ½ cup panko breadcrumbs
- ¼ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano
- Pinch of kosher salt
For the rigatoni
- 12 ounces rigatoni
- 12 ounces raw mild Italian chicken sausage, casings removed
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, if needed
- 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 to 1½ tablespoons Calabrian chile paste
- 1 cup heavy cream
- ½ cup low-sodium chicken broth
- 3 packed cups baby spinach
- ½ cup finely grated Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- Kosher salt
- Black pepper
Instructions
- 1
Roast the mushrooms
Heat the oven to 425°F. Toss the mushrooms with the olive oil, salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Spread them on a sheet pan with a little room between the pieces. Roast for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring once, until browned around the edges.
- 2
Make the pecorino breadcrumbs
Warm the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the panko and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often, until deeply golden. Transfer the crumbs to a bowl. Let them cool for a minute, then stir in the pecorino and a pinch of salt. Do not add the cheese while the pan is still on the heat or it can melt into clumps.
- 3
Cook the rigatoni
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously. Add the rigatoni and cook for about 2 minutes less than the package directions. Before draining, scoop out 2 cups of pasta water. Drain the pasta without rinsing it.
- 4
Brown the chicken sausage
While the pasta cooks, return the skillet to medium-high heat. Add the chicken sausage and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, breaking it into small, uneven pieces, until browned and cooked through to 165°F. If the pan looks dry, add 1 tablespoon olive oil. The sausage should have browned edges rather than looking steamed.
- 5
Add the garlic and Calabrian chile
Lower the heat to medium. Add the garlic and Calabrian chile paste. Cook for about 30 seconds, stirring constantly, until the garlic smells good and the chile has stained the oil orange-red. Start with 1 tablespoon of chile paste. You can always make the finished sauce hotter.
- 6
Make the cream sauce
Pour in the heavy cream and chicken broth. Scrape up anything browned on the bottom of the skillet, then bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the spinach a handful at a time and stir until it wilts into the sauce.
- 7
Finish the pasta
Add the drained rigatoni, roasted mushrooms, and ½ cup of pasta water. Cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently, until the pasta is tender and the sauce clings to it. Take the skillet off the heat. Add the pecorino and butter, then stir vigorously until the sauce is smooth and glossy. Add more pasta water a splash at a time if it becomes too thick. Taste before adding salt. Finish with black pepper and more Calabrian chile paste if you want it hotter.
- 8
Serve
Divide the rigatoni among warm bowls. Spoon over any chicken sausage and mushrooms left in the skillet, then finish with the pecorino breadcrumbs and a little more grated cheese.
Shortcuts and substitutions
Pre-sliced mushrooms
They work, but check the pieces before roasting. Very thin slices can dry out before they brown. Halve any especially large ones so everything cooks at roughly the same speed.
Precooked chicken sausage
Slice 12 ounces of precooked chicken sausage into rounds and brown them in the skillet. Remove them before making the sauce, then return them with the pasta. Raw sausage gives the sauce more flavor, but this saves several minutes.
No Calabrian chile paste
Use ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes. Add them with the garlic. The sauce will still be spicy, although it will miss the fruity, slightly tangy flavor of Calabrian chiles.
Parmesan instead of pecorino
Parmesan works in both the sauce and breadcrumbs. Pecorino is sharper and saltier, so taste the Parmesan version before adding extra salt.
Half-and-half instead of cream
You can use it, but keep the sauce below a hard boil and expect it to be a little thinner. Add less pasta water at first.
Vegetarian version
Leave out the chicken sausage, increase the mushrooms to 1 pound, and use vegetable broth. Roast the mushrooms on two pans if necessary. Crowded mushrooms stay pale and watery.
Recipe notes
Keep the sauce smooth
Add the pecorino after taking the skillet off the heat. High heat can make aged cheese seize into strings instead of melting into the cream.
Do not skip the pasta water
The cream alone can feel heavy. Starchy pasta water loosens it while helping the sauce cling to the ridges and centers of the rigatoni.
Make the breadcrumbs separately
Adding breadcrumbs directly to the skillet turns them soft almost immediately. Keep them in a bowl and scatter them over each serving at the table.
Reheating
Warm leftovers gently with a splash of water or cream. The microwave works, but use 30-second intervals and stir between each one. Cream sauces have very little patience.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Calabrian panna sauce?
Panna is Italian for cream. In this recipe, Calabrian panna is a cream sauce seasoned with Calabrian chile paste, garlic, chicken broth, and Pecorino Romano. It is creamy first, with a steady chile heat underneath.
How spicy is Calabrian rigatoni?
One tablespoon of Calabrian chile paste makes the pasta moderately spicy. Use 2 teaspoons for a milder sauce or increase it to 1½ tablespoons for more heat. Brands vary, so taste yours before adding the full amount.
What mushrooms are best with creamy rigatoni?
Cremini mushrooms are the easiest choice because they brown well and stay meaty after roasting. Shiitake, oyster mushrooms, or a mixed mushroom pack also work.
Can I make this pasta ahead?
The mushrooms and pecorino breadcrumbs can be made a day ahead. Refrigerate the mushrooms and keep the breadcrumbs covered at room temperature. Cook the pasta and sauce shortly before serving.
Why is my cream sauce too thick?
Pecorino continues absorbing liquid after it enters the pan. Stir in reserved pasta water a few tablespoons at a time until the sauce moves easily and coats the rigatoni without sitting in a heavy layer.
Can I use another pasta shape?
Yes. Mezzi rigatoni, paccheri, penne rigate, and ziti all hold this sauce well. Choose a sturdy tube shape with enough space for pieces of sausage and mushroom.
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