Crispy Fried Calamari with Marinara

Thaw it overnight in the refrigerator, then drain and pat it thoroughly dry. Extra surface water makes the coating clump and causes more oil to spatter.

Use ½ cup plain milk instead. The brief soak helps the flour mixture cling; avoid soaking for hours, which can leave the squid too wet to coat evenly.

Use the same amount of rice flour. It gives a similarly light, crisp coating; using only all-purpose flour yields a slightly heavier crust.

Use 1 pound of either if that is what the fish counter has. Cut tubes into even ½-inch rings; separate large tentacle clusters so the pieces cook at a similar rate.

A jarred marinara is fine here. Warm ¾ cup while the oil heats, and serve it in a separate bowl so the calamari crust stays dry until dipped.

Canola, vegetable, or peanut oil all work. Use a neutral oil suited to high-heat frying, and measure its depth in your pot rather than filling the pot more than halfway.

This loose flour-and-starch dredge is designed for hot oil and will stay pale or blow off in an air fryer. For an air-fried version, use a breadcrumb coating sprayed with oil; expect a different crust and cooking time.

Drain thawed squid and blot it well. The buttermilk should form a thin film, not pool in the flour; excess liquid makes heavy clumps and increases spattering.

Check the oil at the start and between batches. Calamari added to cool oil absorbs more fat, while oil that is too hot browns the coating before the squid cooks through.

Let buttermilk drip off, toss a small handful in the dry mixture, and squeeze a few pieces lightly to build craggy bits. Shake away loose flour before lowering the batch into the pot.

Leave room for the calamari to move in the oil. If pieces stick together, separate them gently with a spider or long-handled slotted spoon, then let the oil return to 365°F before the next batch.

Cut the rings evenly and fry them briefly. Begin checking a small batch at 365°F after 60 seconds; most pieces turn crisp within 60 to 90 seconds, depending on size. Prolonged frying makes the squid chewy.

Drain fried calamari on a wire rack rather than stacking it on paper towels. Sauce it only as you eat, and wait for the oil to recover its temperature between batches.

Thaw and cut the calamari, mix the dry coating, cut the lemon, and portion the marinara ahead. Refrigerate the squid and keep the dry mix covered at room temperature. Soak, coat, and fry only when ready to serve.

Fried calamari is crispest right away. Refrigerate leftovers promptly in a covered container and use within 2 days. Reheat on a rack in a 425°F oven for a few minutes until heated through; the crust will be less crisp and the squid firmer than when freshly fried.