Lobster Bisque with Chive Cream

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook the lobster tails

   Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the thawed tails and simmer for about 4 to 6 minutes, depending on size, until the meat is opaque and firm and the center reaches 145°F. Check the thickest part with a food thermometer; color alone is not enough. Lift out with tongs and let cool just until you can handle them. Reserve a little cooking water in case the finished soup needs thinning.

2. 2

   Remove and chill the meat

   Use kitchen shears to cut along the underside of each shell. Remove the meat, check for any shell fragments, and cut into bite-sized pieces. Cover and refrigerate promptly while you make the base. Save the shells and any collected juices.

3. 3

   Toast the shells

   Melt the butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add the shells and cook, turning often, for about 5 minutes, until fragrant and the butter takes on an orange tint. Keep the heat moderate so the butter does not scorch.

4. 4

   Cook the aromatics

   Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook, stirring, for about 6 minutes, until softened. Add the tomato paste, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf and cook for 2 minutes more, until the tomato paste darkens slightly.

5. 5

   Deglaze if using alcohol

   Take the pot off the heat before adding the optional brandy or sherry. Return it to medium heat and simmer for about 1 minute, scraping up the browned bits. If skipping the alcohol, use a splash of the measured fish stock to loosen the pan instead.

6. 6

   Simmer with rice

   Add the remaining measured stock and the dry rice. Bring to a gentle simmer, partially cover, and cook over low heat for 30 minutes, until the rice and vegetables are very soft. Stir occasionally so the rice does not stick to the bottom.

7. 7

   Remove the shells and blend

   Remove the bay leaf and lift out every hard shell with tongs, letting the broth drain back into the pot. Check carefully for small shell pieces and discard them before blending. Let the base cool slightly. Use an immersion blender in the pot, or blend in small batches in a countertop blender rated for hot liquids, following its venting and fill-limit instructions. Start on low and increase gradually until smooth. Do not blend hot soup in a sealed personal blender cup.

8. 8

   Strain the base

   Pass the blended base through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot, pressing the soft rice and vegetables gently with a ladle. Stop pressing if coarse solids begin to pass through. Discard the residue. Rinse the sieve and strain again if any grit remains; do not force hard fragments through the mesh.

9. 9

   Finish with cream

   Set the strained base over low heat and stir in the measured cream. Warm gently until steaming, without a rolling boil. If it is too thick, add a little of the reserved cooking water or plain water until it is pourable. Taste before adding salt, especially if using clam juice.

10. 10

    Warm the lobster and serve

    Fold in the refrigerated cooked lobster and warm it gently, about 2 minutes, just until hot through. Season with salt and pepper. Divide among warm bowls, add an optional small cream swirl, and scatter over the chives. The recipe serves 4 generously or 6 as a smaller course; nutrition is based on 6 portions.